Azelaic Acid in Malaysia: Skinoren 20% vs The Ordinary, Anua & Other 10% Serums
Is azelaic acid banned in Malaysia?
No. Azelaic acid is a legal, registered medicine in Malaysia. Skinoren 20% cream is approved by the National Pharmaceutical Regulatory Agency (NPRA) and dispensed through pharmacies.
The confusion comes from the cosmetic side. 10% azelaic acid serums from brands such as The Ordinary and Anua are regulated as cosmetics, not medicines, and their availability in Malaysia depends on NPRA cosmetic notification.
This guide explains the difference between a 20% medicine and a 10% serum, compares the main brands Malaysians search for, and sets out when each option makes sense.
What azelaic acid does
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid, originally found in grains such as wheat and barley. In skin, it works in three ways:
- Antibacterial: reduces Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria linked to inflamed acne.
- Unclogs pores: normalises how skin cells shed inside the follicle, reducing blackheads and whiteheads.
- Evens tone: inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme behind excess pigment, which helps fade post-acne marks.
It also calms redness, which is why it is used for rosacea. At 20%, it is indicated for acne vulgaris. At 15%, gel formulations such as Finacea are indicated for papulopustular rosacea. Lower-strength serums are used for general redness, texture and uneven tone.
20% medicine vs 10% serum: why the rules differ
The same ingredient sits under two regulatory systems in Malaysia, depending on strength and the claim made for the product.
Registered medicine (Skinoren 20%, Finacea 15%)
Products that treat a skin condition must be registered with NPRA and carry a MAL number. The registration covers clinical evidence of efficacy, manufacturing quality and labelled dosing. Skinoren is supplied through pharmacies. [Verify: whether a doctor’s prescription is required or pharmacist supply is sufficient.]
Cosmetic (10% serums)
Cosmetics are notified to NPRA rather than registered, and may only make cosmetic claims such as “improves the look of uneven tone”. They cannot claim to treat acne or rosacea. Whether azelaic acid is permitted in a notified cosmetic, and at what level, is set by NPRA’s cosmetic guidelines. [Verify and insert the confirmed position here. If cosmetic use is not permitted, state that clearly and note that serums sold locally without a notification are not checked for quality or safety.]
What this means for buyers
A product with a MAL number has been assessed for what it claims to do. Before buying any azelaic acid serum, check the notification status on the NPRA website and buy from an authorised seller.
Skinoren vs Finacea vs The Ordinary vs Anua
Skinoren is the only option in this list with a 20% strength and an acne indication. The serums are lower-strength cosmetic products designed for tone and redness.
| Product | Strength | Format | Category in Malaysia | Best suited to |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Skinoren | 20% | Cream | Registered medicine [verify MAL no.] | Mild to moderate acne, post-acne marks |
| Finacea | 15% | Gel | Registered medicine [verify] | Papulopustular rosacea |
| The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension | 10% | Cream-gel | Cosmetic [verify notification] | Uneven tone, texture, mild redness |
| Anua Azelaic Acid 10 + Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum | 10% [verify INCI] | Serum | Cosmetic [verify notification] | Redness, sensitive or dehydrated skin |
| Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster | 10% | Cream-gel | Cosmetic [verify notification] | Uneven tone, layering into a routine |
A note on labels: some serums use azelaic acid derivatives such as potassium azeloyl diglycinate. These are gentler but are not the same molecule and have far less clinical data. Check the ingredient list, not just the product name.
Which one should you choose?
Match the product to the problem. Strength matters most when you are treating a condition, not maintaining skin.
Choose a 20% medicine such as Skinoren if:
- You have active acne: inflamed spots, blackheads or whiteheads that keep returning
- You have dark marks left after breakouts
- A 10% serum has not made a visible difference after 8 to 12 weeks
Ask a doctor about a rosacea-specific option if:
- You have persistent facial redness with bumps or pustules, flushing, or visible blood vessels
- Your redness worsens with heat, spicy food or alcohol
A 10% serum may be enough if:
- Your skin is clear but tone is uneven or slightly red
- You want a gentle step in a maintenance routine
- You have confirmed the product is legally notified in Malaysia
See a doctor first if your acne is painful, cystic, scarring, or affecting your confidence. These need more than a topical and should be assessed.
How to use it safely
Follow the label or your pharmacist’s instructions. For Skinoren 20% cream, the usual pattern is:
- Cleanse and pat skin dry.
- Apply a thin layer to the whole affected area, typically twice daily.
- Avoid eyes, mouth and other mucous membranes; wash hands after use.
- Use daily sunscreen, especially when treating pigmentation.
Improvement in acne is usually seen within about four weeks, with treatment often continued for several months.
Common side effects: burning, stinging, itching or dryness in the first weeks, which usually settles. Starting once daily can help. Stop and seek advice if irritation is severe or persistent. Rarely, lightening of skin colour has been reported in people with darker skin tones.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding: topical azelaic acid is generally considered one of the more suitable acne options in pregnancy because very little is absorbed. Speak to a doctor or pharmacist before starting any treatment while pregnant or breastfeeding.
Combining with other actives: azelaic acid can be used alongside niacinamide and moisturisers. Introduce it separately from retinoids, AHAs or BHAs to limit irritation.
Frequently asked questions
Is azelaic acid legal in Malaysia?
Yes. Azelaic acid is available in Malaysia as a registered medicine, such as Skinoren 20% cream, supplied through pharmacies.
Why do some websites say azelaic acid is banned in Malaysia?
The claim relates to cosmetic serums, not the medicine.
Can I buy The Ordinary or Anua azelaic acid in Malaysia?
Check that the product has a valid NPRA cosmetic notification and is sold by an authorised retailer. Products without notification have not been checked for quality in Malaysia.
Is Skinoren stronger than The Ordinary azelaic acid?
Yes. Skinoren contains 20% azelaic acid and is a registered acne treatment. The Ordinary’s suspension contains 10% and is a cosmetic.
Can I use azelaic acid every day?
Yes, it is designed for daily use, usually once or twice a day. Start slowly if your skin is sensitive.
Does azelaic acid remove acne scars?
It can fade flat dark marks left after acne. It does not treat raised or indented scars, which need in-clinic procedures.
